M-wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post at Amazon

Bike riders fall into two frequent categories – those who just want to get onto the bike and go, and have someone else do any repairs, and those who take pleasure in tinkering with the bike closely as much as they do the biking itself.

For either category, it actually is necessary to be intimate with biking terminology.

Rather than listing this terminology alphabetically, I’m going to list it by where it’s found on the bike.

So, let’s begin at the front of the bike.

THE Front of the bike

The handlebar is attached to the steering tube by the STEM. The stem comes in dissimilar lengths, depending on how high up you’d like the handlebars to be.

You steer the bike by the handlebars which are attached to the STEERING TUBE, better known as the HEAD TUBE or HEADSET. This is the shortest tube on the bike, running down vertically. The top tube, running horizontally from your seat, is attached to the headset, as is the down tube.

The head tube is also connected to the FRONT FORK – the mechanism that holds your front wheel in place, and to which your FRONT SHOCK is attached – assuming you have a shock absorber on the front of y our bike.

The wheels consist of a number of dissimilar parts. 24. The HUB is the center of the wheel, to which the spokes are attached. From this the spokes radiate out and are attached to the RIM. By taking off the tire you may “true” the wheel by tightening or loosening these spokes. The more spokes you have, the sturdier your tire will be. The spokes are attached to the rim by NIPPLES – threaded receptacles that keep the spokes secure.

Attached to your handlebar are BRAKE LEVERS, which come in respective designs. The left lever, of whatsoever design, will activate the front brake, and the right side handles the rear brake. The BRAKE CABLES transfer the “instruction” to break to the breaks themselves – whether they are

The Middle of the bike

The TOP TUBE runs horizontally from the front headset to your seat. It is the length of this top tube that defines how far forward you have to lean to reach the handlebar, so it’s primary that you get a bike with a top tube of the rectify length for your torso..although the STEM at the front of the bike will support also. It is for the top tube that you’ll want your “standover clearance.”

The DOWN TUBE runs from the headset down to the BOTTOM BRACKET. Altogether, these three tubes form a triangle – which is what gives strength to the bike.

The bottom bracket is connected to the SEAT TUBE, the tube that runs vertically downward and on which you sit, once you’ve placed your SEAT or SADDLE post at the suitable height into that tube.

At the bottom of the seat tube is your CRANKSET – the machinery that provides power to your bike when you pedal, or crank. It’s a “set”, which means there are things attached to it – the chain ring, on which the chain rests, the CRANK ARMS, which are the levers that extend downward and onto which the PEDALS are secured. A SPINDLE connects the crank set to the free rotating axle.

The BOTTOM BRACKET attaches the crankset to the body of a bike – and it is to this that the DOWN TUBE is attached, remember.

The back of the bike

The chain runs from the middle of the bike to the back of the bike, running along the CHAIN STAY. The CHAIN RING is a set of toothed rings attached to the crank, which hold the chain. If you’ve got a bike with numerous speeds, then you’ve got DERAILLEURs as well, which is the mechanism for moving the chain from one sized cog to another, to either make it requiring little effort or more difficult to pedal, depending on the size of the rings.

The chain stay are tubes that run horizontally from the crank set to the rear wheel cogset. The BACK STAY is the tube that runs from the top of the seat tube to the rear wheel, where it forms a triangle with the chain stays.

The IDLER PULLEY is attached to the REAR DERAILLEUR, or cog set, and provides the tension necessary to keep the chain tight.

If you’ve got a dual suspension bike, then you’ll have a REAR SHOCK – or shock absorber.

A bit more in regards to wheels. The wheels are attached to the frames by means of a SKEWER, a metal rod that goes through the hub and is attached to the DROPOUTS (slots in the front fork and rear triangle where the axles of the wheels attach).


M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

The M-Wave suspension bicycle seat post is 300-Millimeter long and is available with 27.2-Millimeter diameter. This lasting alloy seat post offers 40-Millimeter of travel and features an adaptable tolerance and reload. Seat clamp sold separately.


Most helpful customer reviews

14 of 17 people found the following review helpful.
4Good Seat Post…..Drill To Set Secure
By Ambergris
I purchased this suspension post last summer locally for more than what its being offered for here on Amazon. In fact a lot more. Too bad I didn’t find it here first. The M-Wave suspension post is actually an amazingly solid product for the price. At just under a food long it should be enough for just about anyone to find a comfortable range in comfort and pedal travel. The suspension system employed in it feels to me to be as comfortable and effective as some that I have taken a ride on that are much more expensive. (When it comes to bike parts, I am learning that there is always an alternative that is much more expensive no matter what it is). I truthfully did not feel any discernible difference between mine and the so called state of the art models that some of my friends got the shaft on at high priced bike shops. If you happen to bike either a little or a lot, then you know that any kind of suspension system in the bike, and especially in the butt area can make a world of difference. You will feel an immediate improvement in your ride, and definitely over time once you install this post. The only thing that I noticed as to this and just about any other post I have ever used was that unless it is secured with some kind of screw or bolt, they will inevitably “ride”. That is, move around on you as you travel, and or get on or off. To some folks this is not something they get bothered by. However if you are someone that finds the seat post having a mind of its own annoying no matter how much you seem to tighten its clamp, I suggest you do as I did and drill a hole in the base of the post where it enters the body of the bike. Then inserting a good size screw into the hole so that it will lock the post in place no matter what kind of rugged terrain you choose to venture upon. The down side of this procedure is that if it becomes necessary to adjust the height of the seat again for any reason, you have to remove the screw first. Not something that is either a real bother, nor is going to be an event that is going to come up too often unless you are still growing, or loan your bike out a lot. Its a 5 minute procedure that will easily lock this post or any other in place solidly.

In conclusion, as with all my reviews on any accessories on bikes, I readily confess I am no expert, nor any kind of biking aficionado. I just ride locally and comfortably for fun and exercise. I am definitely not someone that feels its necessary to purchase anything more expensive that is commensurate with the amount of use I am going to demand of it. Its my opinion that this seat post is all most of us that are just casual riders would ever need to give one more adjust ability and comfort. Its not only very reasonably priced here on Amazon, but also at the time of this writing ships free when bundled. I highly recommend it…

PS: By the way, make sure you measure your shaft diameter correctly before ordering. For those of us that still affectionately embrace the old time decimal system, the 25.4 mm post, the smaller one, is equal to a simple 1 inch diameter. (Sounds so much easier that way doesn’t it). The larger one being for shafts that are larger than an inch.

5 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
5Works Great
By Mike Riley
100% effective at reducing back pain. Really works well. Minutes to install. Be sure to measure to get the right size.

4 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
4Suspension Seat Post
By dnew54
Seems to be a good product with lousy user instructions…in that mine didn’t arrive with any instruction on installation and adjustment; one sheet of paper would suffice. I figured out on my own that an allen wrench that just fits into the hole in the base of the post lets you adjust the “preload”; that is, back it out a couple turns to loosen it up; turn it clockwise to stiffen it up. As to another review that complained about the post shifting around and needing to screw or bolt it to the seat post tube, that hasn’t happened to me with a good, tight installation. If the post or seat are shifting around, something is wrong with the install. This is a good product in search of a set of good user instructions; hence only 4 stars. For the price, I’d recommend it to anyone looking to improve the “butt factor” of their ride; just clue them in on how to properly adjust it. *Don’t* back the adjusting nut all the way out. It’s very good when paired with a saddle that’s comfortable for you.

See all 14 customer reviews…

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post Image

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post Pic

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post Image

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post Picture

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post Image

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post

M Wave Alloy Bicycle Suspension Seat Post Pic

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